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GORUCK GR1 26 - SUPER LOAD-LIFTER CONFIGURATION.


Ruck plates are cool but expensive to ship so at least to start with you’re going to have to create your own weight. This might be bulky, bags of gravel, sand, dirt or in my case, a concrete block! which may need more support than the standard issue GORUCK GR1 etc can provide.

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THIS IS THE POSSIBLE ISSUE.

NOW HERE’S A SOLUTION.

GORUCK GR1 26L LOAD-LIFTERS FITTED, FRONT.

The GORUCK GR1 26L Super Load-Lifter Configuration. SLLC

Basically this is a pair of straps secured to front base of your GORUCK. These straps then runs up the front of your pack, over the top and then is re attached to the shoulder straps with an adjustable quick release buckle. Quick release so you can still get into your GORUCK when necessary.

GORUCK GR1 26L LOAD-LIFTERS FITTED, SHOULDER STRAPS.

Essentially this pulls the front base of your pack up and draws bulky weight into your back. This is really helpful given I like to carry my hydration on the outside of my GORUCK as well.

This is not new, I haven’t invented the wheel here, I cribbed the idea from my BLAHOL messenger bag which is specifically designed to carry awkward, large and heavy loads. I use the Load-Lifter feature on the BLAHOL everyday and it really, really helps.

ESSENTIALLY THIS IS FOR DEEP LOADS.

What I mean by the title above is; if you’re using a RUCK PLATE or even a weight from a barbell, basically anything that’s heavy but thin, a weigh that you can carry close to your back, you ain’t gonna need to do this. Especially if you’re using GORUCK RUCKER that has specific plate pockets.

IT’LL BE USFULL FOR YOU TO UNDERSTAND HOW I RUCK.

LOAD-LIFTERS AT WORK, ALSO SUPPORTING THE CAMELBAK.

Basically I hike over a specific distance, carrying weight. For instance; 20 miles with 40lbs in my RUCK. “20x40”, obviously not all my rucks are like this but you get the gist.

OTHER SUPER LOAD-LIFTER BENEFITS (It’s about being creative with what you carry)

JUST HOW OPTIMISABLE IS A GORUCK GR1?

40lb CONCRETE BLOCK STRAPPED IN.

The GORUCK GR1 is famous for its utilitarian simplicity but this config has really demonstrated to ME that despite its lack of straps, buckles and organisation the GR1 has just enough MOLLE and features that with a little time and imagination you can convince your GR1 to do exactly what you need it to do. Including in this case, carrying a 40lb plus concrete block relatively easy, relatively comfortably.

THE PARTS LIST (To make x 2 Load-Lifter straps).

SPLIT BAR LADDER LOCK DETAIL.


FITTED. 

1. First fit the split-bar ladder lock buckles to the second row of MOLLE webbing on the GORUCK shoulder straps.

For me this was really difficult because of the tightness of the MOLLE so this is why I suggest doing this first, get it done, everything else is quite easy.

NEXT BUILD THE STRAPS.

I’m going to describe how to build one Load-Lifter strap of the pair and how to fit to your GORUCK. Obviously you just copy the following stages for the second strap.

PREPARING TO PERMANENTLY REMOVE THE BUCKLE.

BUCKLE GONE LEAVING A NICE WEBBING LOOP.

2. Take 2 of the your 24x2” utility straps and remove the ladder lock buckles so you’re left with 2 straps with a sewn loop to one end.

(TIPs 1) This is easier than you think and you can use heavy duty scissors, wire cutters or sheet cutters.
(TIPs 2) While carrying-out the above be very careful not to damage the webbing strap.

SLID ON THE G-HOOK.

3. Taking the strap that still has the buckle attached, thread one of your G-Hook Buckles or if you’re lucky to get hold of a pair… one of Single Gate Keepers.

TRI-GLIDE BUCKLE READY TO DEPLOY.

FITTED.

4. Next thread one of you Tri-Glide buckles onto the other end, until it’s about halfway along the strap.

SIDE RELEASE BUCKLE FITTING.

SIDE RELEASE BUCKLE FITTING CONTINUED.

5. Now thread the same strap through the single bar of your Side release buckle and buckle-up and secure using the already installed Tri-Glide.

SIDE RELEASE BUCKLE FITTING, WEB DOMINATOR TAKES CARE OF LOOSE ENDS.

WEB DOMINATOR DETAIL.

(TIP) For adjustability reasons, leave this strap at this length and use one of your Web Dominators to tidy/up.

ADJUSTER STRAP FITTED.

6. Now taking one of the straps that you removed the buckle from earlier, thread through the adjuster side of the Side Release Buckle.

NOTE THE WEBBING LOOP ON THE UNDER SIDE.

(TIP) Note that once you’ve carried out the above stage, the loop at the end of the strap is underneath. This isn’t a deal breaker but it does look more factory / professional.

7. Taking the second strap with buckle removed, thread through the Ladder Lock Buckle at the end of the first strap.

TIP) As with stage 6. the loop at the end of this strap is underneath.

LOAD-LIFTER MOLLE ANCHOR STRAP AND BUCKLE.

8. Thread your last Tri-Glide buckle onto the none looped end of the strap and slide along so it’s about 4” from the end. This is the end that anchors your Load-Lifter strap to front MOLLE of your GORUCK.

OK so that’s the straps built and ready to fit.

HOW TO FIT YOUR LOAD-LIFTERS TO YOUR FAVOURITE GORUCK.

FITTING THE MOLLE ANCHOR STRAP.

FITTING DONE.

THREAD THE LOAD-LIFERS STRAPS UNDER YOUR GORUCK CARRY HANDLE.

9. Starting at the front of your GORUCK. Thread the Tri-Lock end of your strap under the bottom row, 2nd column of MOLLE, use the Tri-Lock to secure the strap. to really secure, pass the the strap down and over the first bar and under the second, pull tight, you’re done.

10. Now bring the strap up the front of your GORUCK and pass under the carry handle.

NOW THE G-HOOK COMES INTO ACTION.

LOCATE THE WEBBING LOOP FOR THE G-HOOK.

FITTED G-HOOK SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS.

MORE DETAIL.

11. The G-Hook has to be hooked under a loop of webbing on the GORUCK shoulder strap. This loop is right at the join between the shoulder strap and the pack and is bigger on some packs then others but you should still be able to use it. The G-Hook helps keep your load-lifter in place so is quite important.

FINISHED IT SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS.

(TIP) Note that the G-Hook hook points toward the inside of the shoulder strap, in this the tension of the load-lifter strap will pull the G-Hook onto the loop instead of trying to pull it off. This not so critical if you managed to get hold of some Single Gate Keepers or similar : )

SHOULDER STRAP ANCHORS.

LOCKED OFF, SHOULDER STRAP ANCHORS.

FINISHED IT SHOULD LOOK LIKE THIS.

12. You’re almost done.
Bring the Load-Lifer strap down your GORUCK shoulder strap to the split-bar, ladder-lock buckle you fitted at the beginning of the build. Pass the strap under the first bar, over the second that is also mounting the buckle to your shoulder MOLLE, then pass under the third and forth bars. Now thread the strap between the fourth and third bar the back up the buckle to pass the strap back through the first bar to really lock that strap in place.

DONE & DONE, WHAT NEXT?

LOAD-LIFTER CONFIG INC CAMELBAK, ACTULY IN USE THIS WINTER.

That’s actually it done, your Load-Lifter strap is fitted.

Now to dial it in. What this means is that you have enough strap where you need it but you can still adjust and tighten while using. As a rule of thumb I’ve done this for you so if you set the straps as I have that should be OK to get started.

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